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Home Remedies for Cleaning Ceramic Tile Grout

admin — Wed, 02 May 2012 23:41:52 +0000

Effective home remedies for cleaning stained ceramic tile grout are easy to make and inexpensive. Home remedies are made from everyday household ingredients, do not produce toxic fumes and are gentle on the environment. If you are looking for a natural home remedy to clean ceramic tile grout give these a try.

Baking Soda

Baking soda makes one of the best home remedies for cleaning ceramic tile grout. Not only is it non-toxic, baking soda is non-abrasive and very inexpensive as well. To use baking soda to clean grout, mix 3 cups of baking soda with 1 cup of water, creating a paste. Spread the paste along the lines of the grout using an old toothbrush and lightly scrub. Allow the past to soak for 10 minutes and lightly scrub again. Rinse clean with water.

Hydrogen Peroxide

Another great home remedy for cleaning ceramic tile grout is hydrogen peroxide. This awesome little wonder not only cleans but disinfects as well. While hydrogen peroxide is available in a concentrated form, the 3% solution is quite effective for cleaning grout. Pour the hydrogen peroxide into a spray bottle undiluted. Apply directly to grout and allow it to soak for 20 minutes. For grout that has signs of buildup it may help to scrub with an old toothbrush. Rinse clean with water.

Powerful Cleaning Combo

If you are still having problems cleaning ceramic tile grout, try taking your paste to the next level by making this powerful cleaning combination. Combine 3 cups of baking soda with 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide to make a thick paste. Add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and blend well. Spread the paste on the grout with an old toothbrush and let soak for 30 minutes. Using the toothbrush, scrub the grout lines and rinse with water.

Differences between Water Based Asian Paints and Oil Based Paint-part 2

admin — Mon, 27 Feb 2012 23:33:36 +0000

Previously Painted Surfaces
Before repainting a surface, you need to establish what kind of paint is on it. Remove a little of the old paint. If it is flexible with a plastic texture, it is likely latex; if it is brittle, then it is oil-based. Another way to tell is to apply heat to the surface. If it bubbles and melts, the paint is oil-based; if nothing happens then it is water-based. The general rule is that you cannot paint latex over oil because it won’t stick. However, there are now some latex asian paints that allow you to do just that.

Applications
Latex asian paints are now available for almost every application. Manufacturers are taking heed of the movement toward eco-friendly materials so that water-based asian paint, sealants and varnishes are as hard-wearing as their oil and solvent counterparts. But always check labels for suitability for purpose. There are still some instances, however, when oil-based paint is preferable. When creating a special finish, such as marbling, or where a very hard-wearing surface is required, oil-based paints are the best choice.

Safety
Latex asian paints are safer than oil-based, although basic precautions should always be taken when painting. Oil paint gives off fumes that can be dangerous, so ventilate the area when painting and while paint is drying. Oil-based paint also is flammable. Some old oil paint may contain lead, so take care when disposing of it. Contact your local waste management service for advice.

Differences between Water Based Asian Paints and Oil Based Paint-part 1

admin — Mon, 27 Feb 2012 14:32:03 +0000

Purchasing asian paints for your home may involves a choice between oil-based or water-based asian paints. Understanding the differences and the qualities of each type will help you decide which is preferable for your project. About 80 percent of asian paints that purchased for use on and in residential buildings is water-based, according to the Paint Quality Institute.

Water-Based Paint
Water-based asian paints, also called latex or acrylic, has developed significantly over the past few years. Formerly quite fragile and only suitable for walls, it now has many applications and can be used on wood and metal. It has a low odor and the color is less likely to fade over time.

Oil-Based Paint
Oil-based paint, also known as alkyd or solvent-based paint, has a strong, distinctive smell. It is hard-wearing and able to withstand knocks well because it penetrates deeper and adheres better than water-based asian paints. Oil paint takes longer to dry than latex, which is advantageous when creating faux finishes. It is waterproof and primarily is used on wood and metal, both indoors and out. Some oil paint will fade when exposed to sunlight.

Alkyd or Latex?
The way to tell the difference, even if it is not obvious from the paint can label, is by the clean-up instructions. If they say that brushes should be washed in warm, soapy water, then the paint is water-based latex. If it advises that brushes should be cleaned with mineral spirits or other solvent, then it is alkyd.

Recognizing, and Preventing, Tile Grout-Related Problems with Flexible Grout-part 3-Other grout woes

admin — Mon, 27 Feb 2012 00:39:23 +0000

Though not as popular as grout cracking or discoloration/shading, low, powdery and rough tile grout are among the other problems that all too often develop in tile installations. Low grout joints are commonly caused by using too much water when washing excess flexible grout from the joint.

Powdery grout joints are frequently caused by poor curing because water evaporates from the flexible grout which, in turn, halts proper hydration. Other culprits include use of cleaning water that contains concentrated acids, and poor mixing with no slake time allowed. Porous and thereby highly absorptive tile can also suck the water out of the flexible grout mix to stop the hydration process.

Rough joints develop when excessively wet sponges pull cement particles away from aggregate. Also, heavy or repeated acid washing will result in rough grout joints.

Efflorescence manifests itself as a crystalline, powdery substance on the surface of the grout or the edge of the tile itself. Efflorescence is composed of salts contained in Portland cement-based material that is brought to the surface by moisture migration. If noticed early, efflorescence may be the result of excess water in the setting bed or in the grout itself. Other possible sources may be uncured concrete slabs and/or contaminated water. This condition may be accelerated by grout that is excessively porous.

Finally, another grout-related problem is latex migration. When this occurs, a rubber-like substance will appear on the grout surface. Where does it come from? Sometimes, it may come from the latex used in a setting bed that wasn’t allowed to dry out before grouting was started. Another possibility is too much latex used in the setting-bed mix. Another source may be the use of improper latex that re-emulsifies.

Recognizing, and Preventing, Tile Grout-Related Problems with Flexible Grout-part 2

admin — Sun, 26 Feb 2012 15:36:27 +0000

Shall not the tile grout Been More Flexible — The problem with this tile installation, open joints where a cement-based grout was used at the juncture between the horizontal and vertical planes, might have been prevented had a mildew-resistant flexible grout been used instead.

Who Wants Powdery Tile? — This surface of this floor tile shows evidence of efflorescence caused by the water-borne migration of the salts in Portland cement-based setting materials.

Discoloration, shading and mottling are probably the most common causes of grout-related complaints. Many contributing factors can be at play in such situations — so many, in fact, that I’ll list the top 10 here.

1. Grouting done on different days or by different crews.

2. Excess bonding mortar squeezed into joint. Proper depth of tile grout is two-thirds of the tile thickness.

3. Tile grout not mixed properly — either not sufficiently mixed, mixed too slowly or mixed too quickly.

4. Over glaze. This occurs when the grout comes into contact with the glaze over the edge of the tile, which alters the drying and hydration time in portions of the grout.

5. Use of cleaners before the grout has set.

6. Use of old tile grout, particularly when the components of the product have separated within the bag.

7. Mixing water contaminated by chemicals.

8. Excessive cleanup causing water to wash pigment out of the grout.

9. Chemical deposits that migrate from the mortar bed to the grout surface.

10. Inconsistent joint sizes.

We suggest that you may be able to advoid these problems by dampening the grout joint before grouting, using polymer-modified flexible grouts, damp curing the grout and sealing it.

Recognizing, and Preventing, Tile Grout-Related Problems with Flexible Grout-part 1

admin — Sun, 26 Feb 2012 05:36:08 +0000

When it comes to the grouting process, one of the most upcoming problems in the ceramic tile installation is getting across the message that there are certain applications that require a flexible grout caulk joint. A joint filled with cement-based tile grout will often crack for a variety of reasons, such as excessive shrinkage or structural movement. This is especially true in new houses where structural shrinkage occurs and cabinets settle.
If the joint at the juncture between horizontal and vertical surfaces opens, it becomes an area where mold and/or mildew are likely to proliferate. And as most of us are now aware, mold/mildew is one of the latest and hottest litigation specialties about house decoration.

In most cases, mildew-resistant flexible grout will prevent such problems. Under “materials” in the Movement Joints section, the Tile Council of America (TCA) says silicone sealant may be used. The silicone sealant – used for sealing joints in ceramic showers and around tubs, sinks and plumbing fixtures – must be single-component mildew resistant, which means it contains fungicide.

Most of us tend to regard the grout process as a lesser part of the tile-installation job. But when you consider the many problems that frequently crop up relative to this aspect of installation, you will regard tile grouting in a different way.

How to Tell If Asian Paints Were Oil-Based or Latex-Based – part 2

admin — Fri, 24 Feb 2012 22:01:59 +0000

4. Dampen a rag with denatured alcohol, which is also referred to as methylated spirits. Denatured alcohol is a solvent that works well for a variety of cleaning purposes. It is available at paint stores, hardware stores and home supply stores.

5. Rub the painted surface with the damp rag for thirty seconds.

6. Inspect the rag for asian paints. If the rag has paint on it, then the old paint is latex asian paints. The surface will also feel tacky if the paint is latex. The old paint is oil-based paint if no paint comes off on the rag.
The same test can be also done with paint deglosser, often referred to as liquid sandpaper. Deglossers are available at paint stores.

7 . Repeat the test at least once for extra assurance.

How to Tell If Asian Paints Were Oil-Based or Latex-Based – part 1

admin — Fri, 24 Feb 2012 15:00:40 +0000

Knowing how to distinguish between latex (emulsion) and oil-based asian paints is a crucial step when the time comes to repaint or remodel an old home. Applying latex asian paints over a surface previously painted with oil-based paint won’t cause problems, but applying oil-based paint over a surface previously painted with latex asian paints can lead to serious problems such as peeling and cracking. A simple procedure may be used to tell if the old paint is based in latex or oil.

Instruction

Wash the surface in question with a sponge filled warm water and a mild dish washing detergent.
Rinse the surface with clean water and allow it to dry.
Rub your hand over the paint. The paint is oil-based if it feels smooth to the touch. Latex paint, especially gloss paints, have a rubbery feel.

Home Painting Tips: Oil-Based or Water-Based Asian Paints?-part 3

admin — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 01:10:25 +0000

You should always use water-based asian paints for indoor surfaces. This is true even when covering up a surface previously painted with oil-based paint. The only exception to this rule would be if the surface beneath the oil-based paint is water-soluble, since the water used in latex paint can lead to a softening of the surface, which in turn could lead to peeling. Using multiple coats of oil-based paint can usually protect the surface, but before you go ahead and take the risk, first do a test in which you paint a small area with the water-based asian paints. Wait a couple of hours and if there is no peeling, you should be okay to go ahead with the full job.

When using water-based asian paints, also be sure to test for whether the chalk from the previous paint job has been removed. To do this, paint a smaller area of the surface just as in the test above, only this time use two coats. And instead of waiting a few hours, you’ll have to wait a couple of days. After two or three days use a paperclip to scratch a line through the paint, then stick some clear tape over the line and quickly remove it. Check the tape for paint specks. If more than a handful of paint specks are stuck to the tape, which means the paint isn’t bonding strongly. This means you’re going to need to do either one of two things. You’ll have to make sure you thoroughly clean off the chalked paint. Or you’ll need to switch to alkyd paint. Alkyd paints do a better job of covering up chalk.

Home Painting Tips: Oil-Based or Water-Based Asian Paints?-part 2

admin — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 20:07:40 +0000

On the other hand, if the exterior surface over which you plan to paint was previously painted with oil-based paint, you should go ahead and repaint with the same kind. The problem is that oil-based paints is more susceptible to the expanding and contracting that climate changes cause than water-based asian paints and therefore if you use a water-based asian paints to cover an oil-based paint you are running the risk of the undercoating peeling beneath your shiny new paint job. If you are planning to paint an exterior surface that hasn’t yet been painted, go with water-based asian paints. In this way the surface will be better able to breathe. In addition, the latex exterior water-based asian paints will adhere better during climate extremes.

Before you apply painting over an exterior surface that has already been painted, use a piece of sandpaper or a wire brush on it. This will roughen up the shiny gloss enough to allow the new coat to bond better to the surface. Also be sure to heartily clean under any eaves or in any other protected and hard to get to spots. The best method for this cleaning is to use a mixture of water and detergent. Why is this step necessary? Because these areas don’t get completely clean from rain water and if they surface isn’t completely clean, the paint will not bond